One of the beer world's most exclusive clubs gained a new member in 1998 when the monastery of Achel, near Hamont in the province of Limburg, revived its brewing tradition with the assistance of its fellow Trappist brothers at Westmalle. The monastery's previous brewery had closed when the Germans commandeered the kettles in the First World War, and in recent years it had been the only Trappist monastery in Belgium without its own beer portfolio. At first the beer was only available on draught at the monastery's own café, but now the Achel name is popping up on bottles too, and some of them found their way to the London Drinker Beer Festival where I got this sample. How this blond bottle-conditioned ale of 8% ABV corresponds to the draught range isn't clear from the very minimal labelling: perhaps like some Trappist brewers Achel uses colours to distinguish its beers, or perhaps this is the only one bottled. The beer is a very light pale yellow or straw, made slightly cloudy by a loose sediment, with a low, lacy head. The aroma is soft and very subtle, overall dry with scents of hops, yeast, vanilla and melon-like fruit. The palate is also dry but notably full and fruity, with a big-bodied meatiness unusual in such a pale beer. It turns toffeeish and chewy when swallowed, and the finish has a fine perfumed bitterness, with a summery delicacy reminiscent of fresh plums or mirabelles and more estery, meaty tones. There's also a warming alcohol kick as it lingers, along with melon fruit, tasty hops and some flashes of deeper, chocolate-like tones. Although there is a distant similarity to some of the more untypical Trappist beers like Chimay Blanche and Orval, the monks of Achel have clearly decided to plough their own furrow rather than imitate existing Trappist styles: as confirmed by the declared ingredients, this is a beer made from malt and hops alone, with no spices nor that other monastic favourite, candy sugar. In doing so they've created a dry, subtle and thoroughly modern beer from one of the finest and most historic of brewing traditions.

This entrant in Van Eecke's range of bottle-conditioned abbey beers doesn't fit into the conventional categories of double and triple. I've elsewhere noted the hoppiness in its stablemate, the otherwise double-style Pater, as appropriate to a brewery in hop country near Poperinge and Ieper/Ypres, and this Kapittel prior goes one further, being a dry and notably strong dark ale. It's burgundy-coloured, with a smooth and long-lasting head, and a rich aroma with hops to the fore, backed by plenty of dark figginess. The condition is very lively and the palate mainly malty with some fruit and chocolate, quickly developing a pronounced dry bitterness with a touch of peach: there is something in the rich malt/fruit character that reminds me of the blue-capped 8% ale from the nearby Westvleteren Trappist monastery. The finish of Kapittel prior is very, very drying, with plenty of bitter chocolate and hops and a quinine-like touch developing. It's a surprise to find such a strong and dark beer that tastes so dry and austere.

This entrant in Van Eecke's range of bottle-conditioned abbey beers doesn't fit into the conventional categories of double and triple. I've elsewhere noted the hoppiness in its stablemate, the otherwise double-style Pater, as appropriate to a brewery in hop country near Poperinge and Ieper/Ypres, and this beer goes one further, being a dry and notably strong dark ale. It's burgundy-coloured, with a smooth and long-lasting head, and a rich aroma with hops to the fore, backed by plenty of dark figginess. The condition is very lively and the palate mainly malty with some fruit and chocolate, quickly developing a pronounced dry bitterness with a touch of peach: there is something in the rich malt/fruit character that reminds me of the blue-capped 8% ale from the nearby Westvleteren Trappist monastery. The finish is very, very drying, with plenty of bitter chocolate and hops and a quinine-like touch developing. It's a surprise to find such a strong and dark beer that tastes so dry and austere.

Kapittel Abt is coloured amber-orange. Thick, yellowish head, large bubbles, not stable. It’s nose is solvent and fruity as of prunes and citrus. Something spicey there as well. Alcohol in the nose.Taste: Dry. Liquorice, and lots of it. Oh God, this beer has gone down the Leroy drain. Again spicey, maybe mustard seed or horseradish powder. A flavour as if you'ld pour brandy on a lump of sugar.Mouthfeel: quite dry. Alcohol, and alcohol again, quite impressioning. Drying-out effect very obvious. No new aftertaste. A general impression keeps hanging around for quite a bit of time.

Kapittel Abt is coloured amber-orange. Thick, yellowish head, large bubbles, not stable. It’s nose is solvent and fruity as of prunes and citrus. Something spicey there as well. Alcohol in the nose. Taste: Dry. Liquorice, and lots of it. Oh God, this beer has gone down the Leroy drain. Again spicey, maybe mustard seed or horseradish powder. A flavour as if you'ld pour brandy on a lump of sugar. Mouthfeel: quite dry. Alcohol, and alcohol again, quite impressioning. Drying-out effect very obvious. No new aftertaste. A general impression keeps hanging around for quite a bit of time.